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Frosted Mug 

5.9

   

FA: ~leave comment~
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
Length: 90 feet
Views: 101 page views

Submitted By: Duncan Lennon on Sep 12, 2009


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Alexa in the Dihedral


Description 

Along with Mr. Clean, this is the quintessential Dacks crack-in-corner pitch. Beautiful, steep laybacking and jamming up a finger--> hand crack caps an exciting lower half. Begin just left of Labatt-Ami at a broken inside corner. At 10 feet, protect and traverse beneath a small overlap to gain the arete. 10 more unprotected feet (5.7R) gains a stance beneath the corner. Jam and layback the fantastic crack to an enormous ledge with two bolts.

This is really a must do; it and Slim Pickins represent the best of 5.9 in the Keene Valley area.


Location 

The route is near the climber's-right end of the Upper Beer Walls, past the 5.10 Wall. The crack lies inside a small dihedral that in turn is on the enormous right-facing arete left of Labatt-Ami.


Protection 

Pro to 3", doubles of hand-size recommended



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By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Oct 13, 2009

according to the new guide book the FA was Chuck Turner and Bill Simes May 1 1982