Could you ask for anything more? A steep, bouldery route that has a fair mixture of bolts and gear, and climbs like a sport climb--a combination that can't be missed!
Start at the far left end of the roof, at an all-too obvious chocolate streak that extends to the roof. Climb the chocolate-covered rock to a ledge, clip a bolt, then grapple past a smallish right-facing open-book, clipping two more bolts enroute to the big ledge below the roof.
Place a #4 Camalot beneath the roof with a long runner on it, move directly up, over the roof, aiming for a bolt out right. Clip this, then make some cruxy traverse moves at first on a rail, then into a finger crack (small gear in this crack helps ease the pucker effect!), then lock off straight up to another bolt, and easier climbing.
The route ends at the large ledge with a bolted anchor.
Location
At the far left end of The Birch Wall, below the roof at an obvious, dark, chocolately streak in the rock.
Protection
Draws, plus a #4 Camalot, and a few small pieces to a .5 Camalot-sized piece.
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