Spanky's Area

Description 

On the north side (right side, heading into Keene Valley) of Route 73 just minutes from Malfunction Junction, Spanky's Wall sits quietly amongst the large talus slopes.

A host of moderate sport and modern trad routes are the draw of this stellar little crag. The far right end ("Sunshine City" area) is a great place to spend a mellow day leading bolted climbs, while the extreme left end ("The Birch Wall") has a handful of hard mixed lines to thrash on.

Black flies can be fairly bad here, as this cliff sits directly above a swampy area. This is, however, a wonderful choice for hot, humid days, as you can chase the shade.

Getting There 

Is is located exactly 2.6 miles from the Malfunction Junction when heading toward Chapel Pond, or 1.5 miles heading from Chapel Pond toward Malfunction Junction. Park at a small pullout on the north side of Route 73. Hike down the hill, cross the stream (easy crossing), then upstream for a short way until you reacha trail that heads up to the Sunshine City area of the crags.

The Classics