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Beer Walls
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Pegasus 

5.7+

   

FA: Rich Leswing, Jim Cunningham, and Peggy Collins 7/21/82
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.7+ [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 150 feet
Views: 249 page views

Submitted By: Chris Duca on Dec 16, 2007


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Description 

Upon visiting the Adirondacks for the first time, this route should be on everyone's "To-Do List". This is also, perhaps, the steepest line of the grade in the Dacks, so be ready for some nice exposure.
(Note: This description is of the original path up the cliff. The route has been altered over the years due to some serious rock fall.)

Pitch 1:
Start this route on the off-width size crack that leads to the large belay. You can also reach this spot by 4th classing the flake on the right. (5.7 / 40 feet)

Pitch 2:
Leave the belay and head off right aiming to turn the roof where you see the right-facing corner. Clip the dodgy pin and make the crux moves, then finish up easier ground to the rim of the cliff. Be aware that this pitch's protection is PG and should be handled with care. (5.7+ / 110 feet)

With some big air below you, strenuous and thoughtful climbing all over the route, and clean rock abound, you'll be wondering why you ever need to climb anything else.


Location 

In the center of the Lower Beer Walls, about 200 feet to the left of the Pats' Blue Ribbon alcove is a large detached flake leaning against the cliff. This is it.


Protection 

A standard rack with a nice variety of passive pro. Long slings and a couple cordelettes. If you want to rap this route, bring a tag line, or climb with doubles.



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By Jim Lawyer
Jun 28, 2008

The crux roof on the second pitch fell to the ground, taking the hand rail and piton. There is a lone tooth remaining (as of 4/6/08) which is highly suspect. The route is much harder now.