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Esthesia 

5.10a

   

FA: FA--Grant Calder, John Wald, and Dave Cilley, 7/28/76 FFA--Todd Eastman and Dave Cilley, 4/77
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10a [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 90 feet
Views: 269 page views

Submitted By: Chris Duca on Nov 26, 2007


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Description 

es-th-sia (n)--"The ability or capacity for sensation or feeling; sensitivity."

Rather ironic, considering this route often leaves a climber's forearms numb and devoid of feeling!

Just to the left of Slim Pickins is the exquisite outside corner of Esthesia. Marked by the 5 to 6 inch wide overhanging corner, this line epitomizes all that is essential for classic Dacks climbing: Desperately pumpy, intimidating climbing with almost impeccable gear (read: a slight runout on pumpy terrain.).

Start this line of strength on the ramp-like feature about 10 feet off the ground. Climb through a series of vertical cracks, surmount a small roof and gain a good rest below the crux second roof.

Place a #5 Camalot as high as you can in the wide crack and punch it through the steep, pumpy, AND unnerving layback with smeary feet. Rumor has it that this section can be climbed as an offwidth, but visual documentation is still at large.

Easier climbing above deposits the climber at the shared chain anchors with Slim Pickins atop the nice, spacious belay ledge.


Location 

The large outside corner to the left of Slim Pickins.


Protection 

A loaded rack! Carry stoppers and a small assortment of aliens, plus doubles in everything from a .75 to #3 Camalot, and a #5 for the offwidth.



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By Jay Knower
Administrator
Dec 4, 2007

I found that a single #4 Camalot was sufficient for the wide gear. I placed it under the roof and then punched it through the wide section until I got to a #3 Camalot placement. I wouldn't have really wanted to stop in the wideness to put something else in anyway.

By Chris Duca
Administrator
From: Hinesburg, Vermont
Dec 5, 2007

True that, Jay, but it is also possible to reach up from below the wide crack and place the mother Camalot high and deep, then punch it. Personally, I'd expel a little bit more energy just for that added piece (no pun intended) of mind.