This was the first line climbed at the Beer Walls, and named after the first ascentionists' fantasy on that warm spring day in '82.
Commence this climb in a blocky right-facing corner that leads to large ledge about 40 feet up. Either belay your second up to the ledge, or continue up the steepening right-facing corner.
Either way, you will eventually come to a large crack under the massive roof that casts an ominous shadow on you. Protect this with a #4 Camalot and move out left and up around the roof on buckets. Fight the sustained crack to the top, plop yourself onto the final belay ledge, and clip the chains.
This is also a great way to introduce yourself to multi-pitch climbing, as the belay ledge is as large as a car and offers several options for belaying your second.
Location
At the far right end of the Upper Beer Walls is the unmistakable right-facing corner capped by one of the largest roofs in the Dacks. This is the line.
Protection
A large rack with several larger pieces, including 1 #4 Camalot and a couple #3s.
By Greg Kuchyt From: Potsdam, NY Jul 13, 2009 rating: 5.7
The roof is the money section of this climb, but it's well worth the otherwise unremarkable lower half of the route. The roof/corner will take larger gear (#2-#4 C4, possibly #5 C4?). If you only have singles, like me, you can get by with smaller gear down low. Though like me you might be tempted to use larger pieces.
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