All trad climbing on this small crag sitting atop Noonmark Mtn. If you like to tick off Fritz Weissner Routes this is a must visit. All the routes are short (100 ft) but are of high quality rock. The rock is exposed, weathered and sharp. The cliff faces SSW. The routes and surrounding views are well worth the long approach. We set up a fixed rappel line and left our packs on the summit, but walking back to the cliff base is nearly as quick. Long webbing and extra mid-sized cams help to set up the rappel anchors. Due to the high hiker traffic on the summit, we inspected our anchors closely before each rappel. Standard rack. You should note that there were no chalk marks on these climbs prior to our climbing. This is a great outing on rock less travelled.
Getting There
Park at the trailhead parking for the Stimson Trail across from Roaring Brook Falls parking on Rte 73 east of Keene, and head up the private road skirting the Ausable Club and follow the signs for Noonmark. Take a left at the golf course. Respect the private property. The trail is well established. Approach is 2.1 miles and takes about 1.5 to 2 hours. It is steep in places as it ascends 2175 ft. The summit can be seen at about 1.5 miles. The base of the cliff can be gained by scrambling down right on a faint path shortly before the summit. The Weissner Route (5.8) and Center Climb (5.7) are distinguishing crack features to work from (see beta photos). The Kerr Route (5.6) and Old Route (5.4) are also worth doing as well as the variations to Center Climb(5.8 and 5.9) that can be led or top-roped.
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