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Big Slide Mtn.
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Freudian Slip 

Freudian Slip 

5.9-

   

FA: Ed and Ann Palen, Joe Seftel
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.9- [details]
Length: 3 pitches, 400 feet
Season: Summer/Fall
Views: 254 page views

Submitted By: Rafiki on Nov 6, 2007


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John Ciccone following the first pitch of Freudian...


Description 

This is the best slab climb I've ever done and I only got to do the first pitch due to darkness and rain. The climbing is exposed, very thoughtful, delicate and footwork intensive. In late summer the slab is covered with a colorful canvas of lichen (but not slippery) which really makes you search for "holds".

When my partner and I approached the base I called it a "pussy route" and offered to lead in my approach shoes. I must've been delirious because I was hungover, fatigued, dehydrated and had the worst case of ball chafing ever. Good thing he convinced me otherwise. I had never felt my facial muscles spasm while clipping a bolt..something just short of a religious experience..


Location 

Keep walking along the base of the slab until you see bolts. Freudian Slip is just to the left of Slide Rules 5.7 which only has 2 bolts per pitch.


Protection 

The route is completely bolted, but some bolts are 15-20ft apart. If I had known this before hand, I might've thought twice about leading it..but I'm glad I did lead it. Just do it.

At the end of the first pitch I didn't have much of my 50m left. Bring 2X 60m



Add Photo Photos of Freudian Slip
The view from the top of pitch 1

The view from the top of pitch 1

The North Face of Gothics as seen from the face of Big Slide.

The North Face of Gothics as seen from the face of...