Pete's Farewell is the Pitchoff classic! Someone once told me the story behind the route's name. After the FA, Pete slipped off the top of the crag. Thinking Pete was dead, his partner looked over the edge to find him about 50ft below on a ledge screaming about his ankles.
Pitch 1 - Climb the 30ft easy face to a ledge. 5.2
Pitch 2 - Traverse the obvious line out left and up the dihedral to a belay next to the small pine. The lower traverse into the dihedral is slightly harder. 5.6 65ft
Pitch 3 - Walk across the ledge to an awesome handcrack and jam your way to the top. 5.7 60ft
Pitch 1 and 2 can be combined easily. To descend, move right at the top into a small cave and use the slung boulder to rap down into a chimney. There's a set of anchors at the end of the chimney on the face. You may want to stay on rappel to reach the anchors. Rap to the start of the route.
Location
This route starts on top of the practice slab. The approach trail on the left side of the crag will bring you to this big ledge.
Protection
Great and obvious protection the entire way. Bring a few large cams. #3-4 BD
P3 is an awesome pitch with solid jams and great exposure. Plus: The amusement factor is pretty high when the tourists stop in the pulloff to rubberneck at you.
Serious about the bigger cams. You're looking at a HUGE swing onto your belayer before you get that first #4 in. I just had one with me and it was pretty exciting sliding it up as I went before I could throw in something in the #2 range.
Pitchoff Chimney Cliff
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