New York

The 5.7+ third pitch of Cascading Crystal Kaleidos...

Description 

Rock Climbing in New York State consists of three main regions: the world-famous Gunks, properly called the Shawangunks; the Adirondacks, a vast state park with dozens of crags scattered across an area the size of Rhode Island; and Moss Island, a small crag near Little Falls. Several other areas exist, e.g. bouldering in Central Park, the Timp in Harriman Park, as well as many places of questionable access and/or worth.

The main rock climbing venues are near the eastern side of the state, so folks out in Rochester, Buffalo, etc. have a tough time of it - they're either traveling a long ways, pumping plastic, sneaking into the Niagara gorge, or driving across the border to climb in Canada.
Ice climbing is a bit more evenly spread out. The Adirondacks holds the most reliable and extensive ice, but the Catskills generally forms a lot of good ice as well, and the Finger Lakes Region boasts a few lesser-known classic lines (many of which, alas, are not legal to ascend).

Alpine climbing is limited to the Adirondacks, though a few Catskill peaks come close. None of the mountains are particularly tall - Mt. Marcy, at 5,344' is the highest - but the weather is capricious and runs the extremes. Winter ascents of the High Peaks can be very serious endeavors, especially when climbing a classic line such as the Trap Dike or Gothics North Face.

Although a small state compared to the big West, travel in NY, especially to its mountainous regions, can be tricky. Public transport is decent within two hours of NYC along the major transport corridors, but off these or farther away, and car rental, good maps, and good luck are required.

The great majority of visitors arrive in New York City; for those who do, the Gunks is a 2 hour bus ride to reach, and is definitely the place to go for rock climbing. The Catskills is a bit farther north, and having a car is almost mandatory, particularly during ice season. The Adirondacks is 4 to 5 hours away, and also requires a car. Moss Island lies along Interstate 90 and busses stop in the neighboring town of Little Falls

The Classics

Featured Route For New York

Birdland 5.8+  NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps

One of the classic "Land" climbs. And yes, that's the same John Rupley that put up so many climbs in Arizona.This climb is easy to find - follow the trail to a huge corner (Bird Cage), just before the cliff becomes licheny. P1: Start at the corner, but work right to a fixed pin and pull a small overhang. Continue up the face (crux) and eventually work a bit right to the arete. Belay at a fixed anchor. 5.8+, 90'.Many people rap from here ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NY

Photos of New York Slideshow

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J Mo belaying Dan on the FA of Killer Pillar... so...

returning from the Gunks