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DescriptionRock Climbing in New York State consists of three main regions: the world-famous Gunks, properly called the Shawangunks; the Adirondacks, a vast state park with dozens of crags scattered across an area the size of Rhode Island; and Moss Island, a small crag near Little Falls. Several other areas exist, e.g. bouldering in Central Park, the Timp in Harriman Park, as well as many places of questionable access and/or worth. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for New York:
Gelsa 5.4 Trad, 3 pitches, 195 feet The Gunks : The Near Trapps
Horseman 5.5 Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet The Gunks : The Trapps
High Exposure 5.6 Trad, 2 pitches, 250 feet The Gunks : The Trapps
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst 5.6 Trad, 3 pitches, 210 feet The Gunks : The Trapps
Disneyland 5.6 Trad, 2 pitches, 155 feet The Gunks : The Near Trapps
Shockley's Ceiling 5.6 Trad, 3 pitches, 275 feet The Gunks : The Trapps
Yellow Ridge 5.7 Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet The Gunks : The Near Trapps
Limelight 5.7 Trad, 2 pitches, 180 feet The Gunks : The Trapps
Son of Easy O 5.8 Trad, 2 pitches, 170 feet The Gunks : The Trapps
Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope (CCK) 5.8 PG13 Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet The Gunks : The Trapps
Arrow 5.8 Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet The Gunks : The Trapps
Modern Times 5.8+ Trad, 2 pitches, 250 feet The Gunks : The Trapps
Birdland 5.8+ Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet The Gunks : The Near Trapps
MF 5.9 Trad, 2 pitches, 180 feet The Gunks : The Trapps
Bonnie's Roof 5.9 Trad, 2 pitches, 250 feet The Gunks : The Trapps
Directissima 5.9 Trad, 2 pitches, 120 feet The Gunks : The Trapps
Ants' Line 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet The Gunks : The Trapps
Directississima 5.10b Trad, 1 pitch, 200 feet The Gunks : The Trapps
Carbs and Caffeine 5.11a Trad, 2 pitches, 140 feet The Gunks : The Trapps
The Yellow Wall 5.11c PG13 Trad, 2 pitches, 125 feet The Gunks : The Trapps
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Featured Route For New York
Frog's Head 5.6 NY : The Gunks : The Trapps
Another Gunks moderate classic!Follow the approach directions for City Lights. Frog's Head starts about 25' right of City Lights, at a crack in a white block.Be aware that the start overlaps with Maria - it's fairly easy to share this bit of rock between parties. P1: Climb the crack and turn a bulge about 25' up (crux). Continue up a small left-facing corner to a small ledge and a 2-bolt anchor. 5.6, 80'.P2: Climb a short right-facin...[more] Browse More Classics in NY
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