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Rio Quemado Falls
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Unnamed 

Unnamed 

WI3

   

FA: Peter Prandoni and Mike Roybal, mid-70s
Type: Ice, Alpine
Consensus: WI3 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet, Grade III
Season: winter
Views: 228 page views

Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Jan 26, 2008


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Bill Geist on Kiwi Jeopardy in December 2005.


Description 

This is the line right up the center of the Rio Quemado Falls taking the path of least resistance up stair-stepped ice. It appears other separate lines on these falls exist, with some interesting looking mixed potential on the right side.


Location 

This is the line right up the middle of the falls following the path of least resistance.


Protection 

Screws. Anchor on trees above and either leave webbing or walk off to the north side of the falls.



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A view down the falls on rappel for perspective.

A view down the falls on rappel for perspective.

On lead of a slightly steeper start of the route just left of the normal start. Moments from here I pitched it making for the name of the route.

On lead of a slightly steeper start of the route j...


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By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jan 26, 2008

I find it extremely hard to believe these falls don't get climbed much and I'd love to hear any information on others climbing here prior to our visit in 2005.

By Bob D'Antonio
From: Superior, CO
Jan 27, 2008

Jason...the FA was done back in the mid-70s..if not earlier. Peter Prandoni and Mike Roybal...did the falls back in 73 or 74. I climbed it in 1976.

By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jan 27, 2008

Awesome Bob! I was hoping you'd comment. Thanks. I updated the FA info. I'll call the line Unnamed for lack of a better suggestion or name.

By Scott Beguin
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jan 30, 2008

I always thought it was called Quemado falls and has seen many ascents pre 2000.

By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jan 31, 2008

Scott Beguin wrote:
I always thought it was called Qeumado falls and has seen many ascents pre 2000.

No, I'm quite sure it's spelled "Quemado" based on the name on the maps. And, in fact, Bob has previously stated that he and others had climbed here in the 70s so it definitely has seen many ascents prior to 2000. It's great to get some history on this area--this is exactly why I posted this stuff here. Excellent!

By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Feb 4, 2008

Scott Beguin wrote:
I always thought it was called Quemado falls and has seen many ascents pre 2000.

Ah, the spelling "Qeumado" in your original post was a typo and you're stating the name of the falls as a whole. However, I do believe a couple more completely separate lines can be done so I think creating a Rio Quemado falls area with routes is a good idea. Thanks.