Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Some rocks in this area are on private property. MORE INFO >>>
...the remainder are on US Forest Service land. A map detailing the public areas can be obtained from the ranger station en route to the rocks from the village of Tres Piedras.
Description
New Rage is the thin slab climb 30 feet to the left of Eds Mind. It is typical thin TP slab climbing.
The crux is getting established off the ground, prior to the first bolt. Once your feet are 4 feet high, you're through the crux. No harder than 5.9 from here to the 2nd bolt. Soon after the 2nd bolt, the climbing eases considerably. You can angle to the left and build and anchor and scramble down the gully, or go up and right to the anchor for Eds Mind, from which you can rappel with a single rope.
This climb was rated 5.10d in the old guide Rock Climbing: NM calls it 5.9+. Taos Rock calls it 5.9+ but shows it in the location for Ground Up. I don't know how hard it is.. if the crux was up high in the air.. this would be 5.10 for sure. 3 feet off the ground with a good landing... OK now this time.. I'm starting for real..
Location
This slab climb is 30' left of Eds Mind.
Protection
2 bolts. May want trad gear to build an anchor, or run it out to the anchor for Eds Mind.
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