Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Some rocks in this area are on private property. MORE INFO >>>
...the remainder are on US Forest Service land. A map detailing the public areas can be obtained from the ranger station en route to the rocks from the village of Tres Piedras.
Description
Hard lieback moves in a seam (5.10+) begin about 6' up. These might be protected by a tricky nut/small cam placement, or a larger (1"?) cam a little lower. (Mark S. is certain a C3 camalot is perfect.) Better pro for those with weaker morals: crashpad, or stick clip. One or two moves and the first bolt arrives. Still hard 5.10 to bolt #2, then tricky thin face/slab moves- these might escaped left by heading to How Ed Lost His Mind, staying only barely left or slightly right of the bolt is more proud (I felt like my feet were a ticking time bomb). Up to bolt #3 (joining How Ed Lost His Mind) and the funky undercling move just past it with intriguing foot positioning and the difficulties are passed. Run it out to the anchor on 5.7, or place pro in an angling crack if desired.
Historical/ FA info is welcome and appreciated.
Location
This climb is on the S Face of West Rock (#1), just to the right of the pine tree and the routes Ground Up and 'How Ed Lost His Mind'.
Protection
4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. You'll likely want nuts or small cams for supplemental pro, especially the 1st piece, (a microcam is very useful)
West Rock
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