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Some rocks in this area are on private property. MORE INFO >>>
...the remainder are on US Forest Service land. A map detailing the public areas can be obtained from the ranger station en route to the rocks from the village of Tres Piedras.
BETA PHOTO: The west face of South Rock. Yikes Dikes (5.8) go...
Description
Area classic! Climb straight up and over the left side of the short bisected buttress above resembling two heads (ala Easter Island) or more simply... a butt. While a belay can be set up below the buttress, the route can be done easily in 1 pitch with a 60m rope.
Location
Ascends the slab forming the west face of South Rock, easily accessed from the main approach trail. Rappel (double-rope, or will barely work with 1 60m rope) the north side from shared anchors or walk off to the northeast (tricky and exposed).
Protection
Mixed trad w/ bolts (3). Carry a light trad rack (set of nuts, set of cams, long slings) to supplement bolts. Shares anchor (two bolts with chains) with Surface Tension (5.11-).
It looks like both Foley's (2005:76) and Jackson's (2006:59) topos have the third bolt incorrectly plotted; it's actually substantially higher than shown, above some horizontal seams, and off to the right.
I had trouble stretching my 60m rope to the chains; my belayer simul-climbed about 15 feet up the easy base of the rock until I could clip the anchor bolts. Now, maybe it's just my own poor rope management, but be aware that it's a long pitch, regardless. Alternately, one could stop short of the chains and build a gear anchor in the solution pockets.
By George Perkins Administrator From: Los Alamos, NM Jun 2, 2008 rating: 5.8
Chris Wenker wrote:
This route apparently was known in the olden days as "Puddin'", and was rated as an old-school 5.6
I was under the impression that the 5.6 climb followed cracks and grooves just to the south of Yikes Dikes, whereas Dikes is mainly face climbing on the west buttress primarily. I haven't tried it though. Could be wrong.
As there are 3 bolts on Dikes (and seeing who added them), and only 1 mentioned for Puddin, I doubt that Dikes is on top of a previously established route.
The old guide is not very helpful. Clearly, Yikes Dikes is not 5.6 by the modern standard.
By Chris Wenker From: Santa Fe Jun 2, 2008 rating: 5.8+
Hmmm. Lemme get this straight. So, in Mark's picture of the buttress, Puddin should start up the crack in the bottom of the right-facing dihedral that runs up the photo center, and then goes up the right side of the bifurcated 'butt', and then to the single bolt that's straight above that (roughly on the skyline in the photo). But that bolt's not the end of Puddin, either, cause there's a friction crux above that bolt too, before getting to the solution pockets on the top.
Then, Dikes would really go straight up the face in the left half of the photo (any pro there?), past the TWO bolts on the left half of the butt cheek, and then straight up from that (any pro there?)?
BUT, I really only saw two bolts on the left butt cheek, did I miss the 3rd?
So maybe I mixed and matched parts of Puddin and Dikes, huh? I did get a lot of rope drag by the top, and ran out of rope too.... (I'll delete these comments after I figure out what I climbed).
FWIW, I can't recall exactly where the bolts are. However, I do seem to recall only climbing the left "butt cheek". Also, I did not have any problem reaching the anchors with my 59m rope (although it did drag a good bit at the end and I did start around on the north side of the formation). Maybe I will just have to go back and climb it again...
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