Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Some rocks in this area are on private property. MORE INFO >>>
...the remainder are on US Forest Service land. A map detailing the public areas can be obtained from the ranger station en route to the rocks from the village of Tres Piedras.
Description
Start by scrambling up a little to the right of the top of the big detached block. Protect with nuts in the back, a move that turns out easier than it looks as ledges appear gains the first bolt. Angle up and left, passing a couple small bulges to reach a big roof with a bolt right at the lip. Figure out how to reach the giant exit chickenhead, and cruise on up to the chains.
This climb has fun moves on good rock, and bolts in the right places.. Don't get scared off by the TP reputation for runouts- this one's well protected... and, dare I say it, soft for the grade
Name, FA info, or any other useful information that would improve this description is appreciated
Location
This is the left of the 3 bolted lines on the south face of South Rock. It is the line that passes just to the right of the top of the big detached block, and pulls through bulge/roofs up high.
This is Unknown climb #4 in Taos Rock.
A common anchor for the 3 bolted climbs is reached by this route, and a single rope rappel gets you down.
Protection
This climb has 3 bolts where you need them most, but you'll also want nuts, and a few cams (#0.4 camalot to #1 camalot). A couple of the placements are best if you use a long runner.