Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Some rocks in this area are on private property. MORE INFO >>>
...the remainder are on US Forest Service land. A map detailing the public areas can be obtained from the ranger station en route to the rocks from the village of Tres Piedras.
Description
This climb is the obvious finger crack just right of center on the south face of South Rock. Climb up 5.7 or 5.8 finger crack for the first 2/3 of the climb. A bulge above this provides the crux of the route, but takes great pro (1" cams and great stopper placements). Fun moves through this section lead to a good ledge and your choice of anchors. Overall this climb is fun climbing on good rock.
According to a very ancient guide to TP you can traverse right just before the crux bulge is reached to keep the climb at 5.7, passing a location where a vacated eagle's nest is (or was). I haven't done this, and watch out because the old guide sometimes rates climbs lower than most would consider them now.
Location
This climb is the obvious finger crack just right of center on the south face of South Rock. It begins just right of some boulders. You can rappel from the anchor for the bolted route to its left with a 60m rope to descend (recommended), or scramble down a gully to the East (not recommended).
Protection
1 set nuts, 1 set cams to 3". Doubles in the finger-size range might be useful. A fixed anchor of webbing around a block is at the top, and it's also easy to reach the bolted rappel anchor for the bolted climbs to the left of this route.
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