Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Some rocks in this area are on private property. MORE INFO >>>
...the remainder are on US Forest Service land. A map detailing the public areas can be obtained from the ranger station en route to the rocks from the village of Tres Piedras.
Description
The first bolt is up high. Supposedly you can get here by climbing straight up or angling a little in from the left (11c, iffy pro), but most people will want to move in sort of from the right side (5.10, good pro) on good flakes, starting just a little to the left of Bienvenidos. Awkward to clip bolt 2 from a sidepull to its right. I found that to move past the second bolt I needed to move left to the arete to the left and pull on small knobs to a decent right-slanting rail. This seemed hard for 5.10c, but I'd be hesitant to call this solid 5.11 either, but the pro is a big bolt in the right place. After the 3rd bolt, angle up and right on quintessential TP face climbing in the same vein as the others in the area- 5.8 or 5.9 knobs with a lot of space between gear in occasional diagonal cracks and a couple of bolts to guide your way to the top..
The climb is rated as 5.10c in RCNM (with the start from the right side) and 5.11c in Taos Rock (presumably with a start coming in from the left?). It seemed to me like there was really only one obvious way to begin this climb..
Like Bienvenidos and many others at TP.. this is well protected on the crux (5.10) sections, but the easier upper section is somewhat runout.
Nearly every climb from the middle to the right side of Mosaic Rock is excellent. This one offers nothing special compared to the others nearby, but is certainly worthwhile and fun.
Any FA, historical, or other info is genuinely appreciated
Location
This climb is the bolted line left of Bienvenidos and about 20' right of Clean Green Dream
Protection
Cams up to 2" (yellow camalot) and nuts. Most of the most important pro is bolts- 5 of 'em all told. At the top, traverse right to the 2-bolt anchor/rappel station for Bienvenidos (rap from this with 1 60m rope, or walk off farther right if you prefer).