Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Some rocks in this area are on private property. MORE INFO >>>
...the remainder are on US Forest Service land. A map detailing the public areas can be obtained from the ranger station en route to the rocks from the village of Tres Piedras.
Description
Begin about 20 feet left of Serpentine Crack. Head up and then left to a bolt (stopper protects). Thin face up and left (crux) leads to a horizontal. From here you wander right and up and left and up and right passing more horizontals (thin gear necessary in these) and three more bolts. A little runnout getting to the last (4th) bolt (but not too hard). From the last bolt, head right and then up to reach a two bolt anchor/rap (100++ feet) which is shared with Serpentine Crack.
Location
This face climb wanders up the section of rock about 20 feet left of Serpentine Crack and about 20 feet right of Better Red Than Dead.
Protection
Four bolts, stoppers and thin cams to 1 inch. Slings and draws.
By George Perkins Administrator From: Los Alamos, NM May 2, 2008 rating: 5.10c PG13
Excellent and classic climb- arguably the best 5.10 at TP.
It's too bad the guidebook calls this climb 'R' - it probably keeps people off of this very enjoyable route who otherwise would really have a blast. It is no more runout than the rest of the Mosaic Rock routes (of those 5.10 or easier).
Near the top, the guidebook suggests you angle right on big holds past a tiny pine tree (and skip the 4th bolt which is to the left).
1 60m rope reaches on rappel, doesn't quite just barely reach if lowering through the gear.
I am generally scared off the R's at TP but I will say this route is all there, for a full value route finding/creative pro classic. You can get a so-so piece below the first bolt in the wet horizontal which might stay put if you don't fall on it. Don't cheat yourself with the toprope.
Mosaic Rock
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