Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Some rocks in this area are on private property. MORE INFO >>>
...the remainder are on US Forest Service land. A map detailing the public areas can be obtained from the ranger station en route to the rocks from the village of Tres Piedras.
Description
Scramble 3rd class to the Chicken Heads ledge, or climb Chicken Shit to this same ledge. Climb up on solid flakes and positive holds to a 2 bolt anchor. It's 5.8 with closely spaced bolts to this point (the 2nd bolt is not visible until it's at your nose). Most people lower from this anchor, but the adventurous can continue up poorly protected 5.9 face to the top of the rock (only the 2nd pitch is runout). If you stop at the midway anchor.. "5 Years" is kind of short to be recommended, considering the nearby company on Mosaic Rock, but a good choice if you forgot your rack.
Location
The face left of Chicken Heads and right of Dirty Diagonal. The 2 bolt anchor is obvious. Lower from that anchor with 1 rope, or walk off to the right if you top out.
Protection
2 bolts+ 2 bolt anchor, to get to the middle anchor. If you stop here, only 4 quickdraws are needed (or a 5th quickdraw, if starting with Chicken Shit).
If you plan on topping out, you'll need some gear to build an anchor up high at the top.
Mosaic Rock
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