Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Some rocks in this area are on private property. MORE INFO >>>
...the remainder are on US Forest Service land. A map detailing the public areas can be obtained from the ranger station en route to the rocks from the village of Tres Piedras.
Description
Cruise up low angle slab with few features to the tiny pine bush (or traverse in from the right). From the left side of the bush, climb the crux of quality flakes with just enough creatively discovered protection (creative nut placements especially!) and intriguing moves and reach a 2 bolt anchor on a ledge. You can belay here, lower to the dirt, or continue into a 2nd pitch. Traverse up and right into a left-facing corner. Ascend this a short ways, then fire straight up using the biggest mama jug you've ever seen.
Any historical/ FA info is appreciated.
Location
Toward the left side of the S face of Mosaic Rock, identify the small (dying) pine tree just left of the exquisite and steep Mosaic Wall, above low slabs. Mama Jugs proceeds up from here. To descend: follow the standard walk off to the east.
Protection
Trad rack of 1 set nuts, including micro nuts, and cams from TCUs up to 3". Bigger cams are useful, but not mandatory, to set a belay at the top. It is also possible to climb only 1 pitch to the 2-bolt anchor 2/3 up, and return to the ground from here with a single 60m rope.
By Jason Halladay From: Los Alamos, NM Sep 23, 2007 rating: 5.8
Mmmm...mama jugs! C3s, 000 and 00 specifically, along with tiny nuts, are nice on the first pitch of this route. Can be done as one long pitch with a 70m rope (probably even a 60m) but look out for rope drag.
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