Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Some rocks in this area are on private property. MORE INFO >>>
...the remainder are on US Forest Service land. A map detailing the public areas can be obtained from the ranger station en route to the rocks from the village of Tres Piedras.
BETA PHOTO: Albuquerque Route (5.8+), Middle Rock, Tres Piedra...
Description
This nice face climb passes two bolts (and an optional cam placement) to a third bolt at the well-protected crux overlap/bulge. More nice friction face leads past one more bolt to an easy stance at the anchors in a nice exposed ampitheatre below the headwall. Easy to set this one for a toprope with a 60m rope.
Described by both Foley (2005) and Jackson (2006).
Location
Ascends near the center of the southern face of Middle Rock. When approaching from the parking lot, the social trails generally lead you to the middle-western end of Middle Rock (near Bats in the Belfry), and the Albuquerque route lies about 65 feet farther right, around the massive spruce tree that grows right next to the wall (yeah, I know, that's not all that helpful).
Also, a fairly new bolted line (5.9+/5.10- ?) starts about 20 feet to the right of Albuquerque (slightly up a ramp, behind the spruce to the right). That fun line (5-6 bolts?, hard at the start) shares anchors with Albuquerque, so the two can be toproped together.
Protection
Four bolts lead to a 2-bolt anchor (no chains). After the second bolt, it is possible to traverse slightly left to a quartz-filled seam and place a cam (any from #.75 to #2 camalot) with a long runner. You can easily clip the 3rd bolt before working out the crux bulge.
Middle Rock
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