Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Some rocks in this area are on private property. MORE INFO >>>
...the remainder are on US Forest Service land. A map detailing the public areas can be obtained from the ranger station en route to the rocks from the village of Tres Piedras.
Description
The hardest easiest-looking climb I've ever seen.
The first bolt is clipped with a reachy undercling (stickclip or find tall friend if <5'10"). Step right of this bolt, grab the "juggy" crystals (ha ha!) and move up to the horizontal crack using footholds under the low overlap that you can't see (5.10+ ?). [If too short, this move might not be protected because you wouldn't be able to have clipped the bolt.] Traverse left 10' along the horizontal overlap. Up past the rest of the bolts with a distinct high-step/mantle move (crux), with a bolt protecting it ideally. After the last bolt, run it out on 5.6 to the anchor (shared with Thunder Toad).
Danger Mouse is the greatest secret agent in the world, and would certainly climb this with no difficulty.
This is an excellent climb for a person looking to try their first 5.11 at TP. The bolts are right where you want them.
Location
The leftmost of two bolted climbs on the west-facing slab just left of Beastie Alley.
Protection
3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor (shared with Thunder Toad). Don't bring other gear.
6' people might forget that its also reachy!! I'm 5'8" and was an inch too short to reach the 'thin' holds without jumping. At least I could clip the first bolt (barely).
Beastie Alley
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