Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Description
This beauty features the best stone on the Shady Side. Unfortunately this line is also the only drainage for a significantly sized canyon above. As such, dirt, leaves, rocks and water stream down the route every time it rains, which is rare, but, due to the sparsity of climbers, happens frequently enough to ensure that you will need to clean this route before you attempt a redpoint. The crux is at the 3rd bolt, so I recommend you head up from the ground and see how it goes before you commit to the several hours it will take to brush down the entire route. If you can manage the extremely powerful crux, nothing above the lip of the overhanging will slow you down.
In addition to the water hazard, this route is often used by the local Search and Rescue squad for various training exercises, and features a convenient rap anchor at the cliff top. For this reason, you might thing twice about fixing your draws for an extended period of time.
The route begins with long, powerful moves on a slightly leftward traverse, to a sick-hard move at the 2nd bolt. From here, a commiting dyno leads to a good jug. At the 4th bolt, a technical rock-over gains the headwall, followed by a left-ward traverse to an easy stance. More trivial moves lead to a final technical boulder problem on insecure slopers just below the anchor.
Location
Fifth route from the left, up a distinct brown streak.
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