Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
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Description
Steep reachy start, cheater block available for shorter people. Once past the start the climbing eases up but remains tricky to the anchors.
Location
Leftmost route in the Bat Cave, starts just left of Tacoma Man
Careful on the loose holds at the start, I used them but very cautiously. I also remember the finish to be quite heady as the bolt was just out of reach and had to make a hard move well above my last bolt.
sorry about loose hold, tried to remove. but it's stubborn, can be bypassed if I recall correctly? We thought upper moves to bolt about 9+ to 10-? getting to anchor is tough though. three stars of five imo
Tim did you do the first ascent of these routes? I just remember not liking the top section of this as I couldn't clip one of the upper bolts from the obvious clip stance. I am only 5'6" so that didn't help.
It is probably a better route then I give it credit for.
I did fa of these two, mike freeborne? did fa's of harder routes, we shared bolting as bolting these on lead was hard and scarey! we couldn't put bolt lower because of the flake below the bolt
I think I was able to work up the right (darker stone) to clip and reach the anchors, but the direct friction climb underneath with some sort of high left (?thumb catch) went direct and in better style. FUN ROUTE!