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5.11b/c

   

FA: Tim Naylor
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11b/c [details]
Views: 96 page views

Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on May 30, 2007


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Description 

Steep reachy start, cheater block available for shorter people. Once past the start the climbing eases up but remains tricky to the anchors.


Location 

Leftmost route in the Bat Cave, starts just left of Tacoma Man


Protection 

Bolts & Anchors



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By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
May 30, 2007

Careful on the loose holds at the start, I used them but very cautiously. I also remember the finish to be quite heady as the bolt was just out of reach and had to make a hard move well above my last bolt.

By tim naylor
Aug 20, 2007

sorry about loose hold, tried to remove. but it's stubborn, can be bypassed if I recall correctly? We thought upper moves to bolt about 9+ to 10-? getting to anchor is tough though. three stars of five imo

By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Aug 20, 2007

Tim did you do the first ascent of these routes? I just remember not liking the top section of this as I couldn't clip one of the upper bolts from the obvious clip stance. I am only 5'6" so that didn't help.

It is probably a better route then I give it credit for.

By tim naylor
Aug 22, 2007

I did fa of these two, mike freeborne? did fa's of harder routes, we shared bolting as bolting these on lead was hard and scarey! we couldn't put bolt lower because of the flake below the bolt

By Mike Howard
Administrator
Aug 22, 2007

I think I was able to work up the right (darker stone) to clip and reach the anchors, but the direct friction climb underneath with some sort of high left (?thumb catch) went direct and in better style. FUN ROUTE!

By tim naylor
Aug 23, 2007

good job of figuring it out. I like the thumb catch way but didn't get bolt farther left to make that the obvious sequence.