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Fang Shui 

5.12c

   

FA: Jay Foley
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12c [details]
Views: 105 page views

Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on May 30, 2007


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Description 

After Stick clipping the first bolt and pulling the start the angle decreases to only mildly steep, but the holds shrink and the climbing gets technical. Pull the first crux involving a long reach of an undercling and head up to the second harder crux. Grab a sharp, painful, awkward pocket, make a hard pull and hit the better holds above. Slightly run-out at the top, but much easier climbing.


Location 

Between Path to Enlightenment and the now chopped Guillotine. Look for the Steep route with left angling bolts at the center - right side of the cave.


Protection 

Bolts to Anchors; Stickclip



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By Bill Ballace
From: Wheat Ridge , CO
Nov 8, 2007
rating: 5.12c

Cool route but be aware of loose rock!