Figuring out the moves to move out onto the arete....
Description
Climb left through large roof on pinned blocks and follow into shallow overhanging corner. Continue straight up the right side of the roof. Crux as you climb onto thin arete above corner. Athletic moves and nice exposure bring you to the anchor. Arise Alianza you have nothing to lose but your chains... oops! Reies López Tijerina led a struggle in the 1960s and 1970s to restore New Mexican land grants to the descendants of their Spanish colonial and Mexican owners.
Location
Immediately left of Hopper's Hangover
Protection
10 bolts to 2 chain anchor. Can use gear in finger crack and pockets above...I would not trust blocks and flakes however.
In 1967 Alianza Federal de Pueblos Libres, a Chicano group led by Reis Tijerina, seized the county courthouse in Tierra Amarilla, NM, and freed 11 prisoners as part of a movement claiming land granted their ancestors by Spain. Tijerina was arrested for kidnapping and assault, but he was acquitted after presenting his own defense in court. Later he served over 2 years in prison for burning a U.S. Forest Service sign.
By Daniel Trugman From: Los Alamos, NM Feb 8, 2009 rating: 5.9
This and Klein's Corner are terrific warm-ups on quality basalt.
I think that a vital piece of Tijerina broke off. It seems to me a chocked flake adjacent to the second bolt broke. I think I found the suspect piece on the ground near the belay area. Going through the roof is definitely not a 5.9 move any more. Can anybody confirm?
Bummer. When putting it up, I fished out several pinned blocks from that corner but others could have come loose. Basalt consistency is so hard to predict sometimes. One reason why we bolted next to questionable placements is because we have all seen these features crumble or pop under load. I can still imagine there are other ways through given the various other holds. What would you rate it now?
RSS Feed
