Step up to the big roof. Place pro underneath (small cam) and turn the roof (1st crux) to horizontal handholds and the first bolt. The crux is right around the 2nd bolt in a thin section passed with careful footwork (2nd crux). Up higher.. you'll pass a cool quartz vein and enter a right-facing dihedral with some (tricky) pro but easier climbing.
This climb is probably a little harder than the bolted climb to its right, and is almost as good. Like the nearby bolted climbs, pro is excellent and abundant, so it's a good climb for a someone breaking into the 5.9 grade at TP.
Location
This is the middle of the 3 bolted climbs on the south face of South Rock. It starts at the lower right end of the big roof.
This is "Unknown #5" in 'Taos Rock'
Protection
3 bolts... plus some gear.. nuts and cams from fingers to 2". Rappel off the common anchor on the south side.
This is a really fun climb! The 15 feet from the top of the block to the last bolt is sweet. I climbed it without knowing the grade and felt that the bolted part was a little harder then 5.9+, but then again my shoes have split toes. I only took nuts with me and only placed one of them. There are lot of places to put gear but after the last bolt the climbing eaes up (solid lay backs) and I felt ok running it out.
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