Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Archive Photo of the John Dunn Bridge around 1900 ...
Description
The old westward bound stage crossing from the original John Dunn Bridge over the Rio Grande. Massive stone walls and old roadbed bring you to the base of the crag just upstream and northwest of the rafters' put-in for the Upper Box. Short (40 ft) crag with 5.5 to 5.11 trad and sport routes. Great Spring and Fall climbing with easy access (5 min approach). You can swim in the Rio if you are overheated or dip in the hotsprings if you're chilled.
See "Taos Rock Climbs & Boulders of Northern New Mexico" by Jay Foley, Sharp End Books, 2005. The only complete guide for the other climbs in this area.
The anchors for these climbs can be reached from the top. Follow the old road up left and scramble along the top (careful to not knock rock down on your party). Some are pretty easy to rig (the sport routes). Otherwise, look to sling trees at the top to reach them.
Getting There
Same as for John's Wall but continue across the Rio Grande and turn North after the John Dunn bridge and park at the end of the road. A fisherman's trail heads north to cairned climbers trail onto the Old Stage Coach Road
By George Perkins Administrator From: Los Alamos, NM Apr 10, 2008
From right to left (some info from Taos Rock): 1) Carly's Crack 5.5 (trad) 2) Cactus Karma 5.8+ hand crack (trad) 3) Forest's Face 5.6 (trad) 3.5) Popay's Revolt 5.10+ (sport) 4) Augustin's Flake 5.8 left dihedral; 5.9 flake on right (trad) 5) Piton Crack 5.10+ (trad, but with fixed pitons protecting crux move) 5.5) Monkeywrenchin' Momma 5.10- (sport) 6) Viva Che' also called "Pockets" 5.10- (sport) 7) Stem It Black 5.9 chossy dihedral- use anchor to right at top (trad) 8) "Cu" d' etat also called "The Prow" 5.11 (sport) 9) #1 G 5.8- (sport)
To the locals that paid for and installed the anchors- THANKS!
Old Stagecoach Road
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