Archive Photo of the John Dunn Bridge around 1900 ...
Description
The old westward bound stage crossing from the original John Dunn Bridge over the Rio Grande. Massive stone walls and old roadbed bring you to the base of the crag just upstream and northwest of the rafters' put-in for the Upper Box. Short (40 ft) crag with 5.5 to 5.11 trad and sport routes. Great Spring and Fall climbing with easy access (5 min approach). You can swim in the Rio if you are overheated or dip in the hotsprings if you're chilled.
See "Taos Rock Climbs & Boulders of Northern New Mexico" by Jay Foley, Sharp End Books, 2005. The only complete guide for the other climbs in this area.
The anchors for these climbs can be reached from the top. Follow the old road up left and scramble along the top (careful to not knock rock down on your party). Some are pretty easy to rig (the sport routes). Otherwise, look to sling trees at the top to reach them.
Getting There
Same as for John's Wall but continue across the Rio Grande and turn North after the John Dunn bridge and park at the end of the road. A fisherman's trail heads north to cairned climbers trail onto the Old Stage Coach Road
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Old Stagecoach Road:
By George Perkins Administrator From: Los Alamos, NM Apr 10, 2008
From right to left (some info from Taos Rock): (01) Carly's Crack 5.5 (trad) (02) Cactus Karma 5.8+ hand crack (trad) (03) Forest's Face 5.6 (trad) (03.5) Popay's Revolt 5.10+ (sport) (04) Augustin's Flake 5.8 left dihedral; 5.9 flake on right (trad) (05) Piton Crack 5.10+ (trad, but with fixed pitons protecting crux move) (05.5) Monkeywrenchin' Momma 5.10- (sport) (06) Pockets also called "Pockets" 5.10- (sport) (07) Stem It Black 5.9 chossy dihedral- use anchor to right at top (trad) (08) The Prow also called "The Prow" 5.11 (sport) (09) #1 G 5.8- (sport)
To the locals that paid for and installed the anchors- THANKS! You guys have made this a fun place to hang out, climb, and swim.