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(03) Zee Wicked Bulge 
(09) Pimp Daddy 
(10) Bats out of Hell 
(11) The Demon 
(12) Captain Blueberry 
(13) Buttress Fly 
(14) Liberace's Anus 
(15) Prickly Proctologist 
(17) Bananas on Acid 
(18) Banana Peel 
(19) Hurt Me Not 
(21) Juckets & Bugs 
(22) Milo Mindblender 
(23) Major Major 

(09) Pimp Daddy 

5.13d

   

FA: Timmy Fairfield
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.13d [details]
Length: 30 feet
Views: 103 page views

Submitted By: LeeAB on Dec 13, 2008


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Description 

Get tall off the ground and stand up into a three finger undercling or crush a crimp. Gain the huge undercling higher and clip the second bolt. A dish and a sidepull leads to a cross over to some edges and the third bolt. Move up onto some nice holds then pick your poison, you are going to have to yard on a small three finger razor with your right or left hand as a sidepull or gaston. Going right means more moves, going left is scrunchy. After a jug sidepull and the fourth clip, make a long move up to a sidepull and some balency sidepull moves up to a good hold above the anchor.


Location 

First route left of Bats out of Hell (the overhanging crack/flake line). Has a huge undercling between the 1st and 2nd bolts.


Protection 

4 bolts and biners on the anchor, stick clip.