Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Description
A beautiful, technical, and quite sequency route, this route stands out as one of the best I have been on in New Mexico. A confusing start, watch chalked sloper and go for the jug right of it, and clip the first bolt. Trend slightly left through difficult crimpy terrain and clip the second. After the second you will swing back slightly to the right. Keep going, tricky moves and crimpers will get you to the anchors. The top is run out but the holds are GREAT!
Most people call this route an 11c, as does the old black Enchanted Tower guidebook (out of print). For some reason (not explained) Dennis R. Jackson in his new Climbing New Mexico guidebook bumped it up to a 5.11d. Personally I am split between the grades. As Socorro tends to be quite sequency and technical in the first place, it would probably compare to other 5.11c's at Socorro. However, compared to other places in the state (i.e. Enchanted Tower), this route would be called 5.11d. Take your pick!