Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Description
A very unique sport climb. A mix of sidepulls and underclings with some technical and sequency moves thrown in. You would normally expect to find moves like this while traversing under a roof on a trad climb.
Start up a blunt arete on easy ground past the first bolt to the second bolt. Now take a deep breath and figure out where your going. From here continue left past three bolts trying to stay fresh as each moves is harder than the last. The last clip on the traverse is quite difficult but the previous clip isn't far away.
Next pull the crux moves straight up over the bulge, grab a jug clip the sixth bolt and head to the anchors.
Now the next crux is cleaning the route. Proficient use of a stick clip is nice to get the first draw, or just boulder up to get it. Beware of the swing back into the wall behind.
Location
Far right side of the wall. Hard to miss, look for the overhanging horizontal crack.