Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Description
Climb out of the shallow cave on loose flakes that look like they should fall right off. Pull the lip of the cave on underclings to a nice jug, firmly held in place by glue. Pull a technical sequence on small crimps to get established on the headwall.
Continue up following a wondering path encountering an occasional rest mixed in with some hard moves. At the last bolt pull a final hard to read crux to get a jug and a huge reach rightwards to another jug and easier moves to the anchors.
There is a three bolt alternate start 5 feet to the right of this route. This skips the loose flakes and the initial thuggery of the original start. I haven't done it, but I hear it is the same grade.
Location
Starts out of the rights side of the cave. Name and an inaccurate 7C grade are written on the rock. There is even an arrow between the inital bolts in case you get lost.
After pulling the lip and obtaining the jug don't continue to head left into "Insider Trading" This is "Fair Trade" 13b/c. Once on the headwall it can be quite confusing about where to go, but while the route meanders back and forth the line generally heads straight up.
Protection
9 Bolts to hidden Anchors until you get past the last bolt. Consider unclipping the first bolt for ropedrag and belayer courtesy.
Fillet et Papillon Wall
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