Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
BETA PHOTO: The rope hanging on Sinister Dane
Description
This is likely the longest hard sport route at Socorro. I've heard that this is also the best hard sport route, though this is the only hard route I've done here. The route is surprisingly good. The rock looks like choss both from afar, and up close, and the quantity of glue certainly makes you wonder, but I found the rock to be very solid, and enjoyable. If you want juggy thuggery this is not the place for you. Once past the initial boulder problem this route is crimping paradise.
The route starts with a chimney move to gain a big ledge. From the ledge climb horizontally out the arch using the sort of technique you would expect. The most powerful business comes turning the lip. Its not too bad getting to and clipping the fourth bolt, but immediately after the 4th clip a powerful lock-off is required to reach the key hold. Once established on the hanging wall, a decent rest gives way to some glued holds, hard-core crimping and ultra-techy beta. After the traverse right there is another so-so rest, and then the upper crux: devious, insecure face climbing. There are no straight down holds in this section, so don't bother looking. This redpoint crux ends at a horizontal break and no hands rest. Shake well here, as one more sharp crimpy move guards the chains.
Location
Left end of the wall, at left end of cave opening. The route climbs rightwards out the left arch of the cave for 3 bolts, then turns the lip with some exciting gym-maneuvers. Once over the lip, the route climbs straight up for two bolts, then traverses right to the 6th bolt, then straight up past 3 more bolts. Once above the lip, don't be suckered left onto two new bolts in the black streak.
Fillet et Papillon Wall
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