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BETA PHOTO: Fillet et Pappillion Wall. The rope is on Siniste...
Description
This wall has around 18 routes, some uncompleted, faces due west, and features a shallow cave on the left end. All routes are fully bolted, though some share anchors. The cave also apparently has a few boulder problems. These are probably the longest hard routes at Socorro.
Getting There
From the upstream entrance to box canyon, the wall is visible to the east. Before entering the Box, cross the wash and find a decent trail that cuts up the hill side just south of the major rock outcroppings. In 5 minutes you will arrive at the left end of the wall, below the cave. There are 4 bolted easy routes (sub 5.7) at the far right end of the cliff (aka Hueco Wall)
Routes
(The following information was taken from a comment by DisturbingThePeace)
This wall can get quite confusing with all the obsolete information, and many many linkups in the cave and upper headwall. Here is a listing of the main mostly independent lines from left to right.
Uncle Fester routes: Left of the cave, there are several lines and linkups. 12a - 13a
1. Almost Blue (12c): Regarded as one of the best lines on the wall. 2. (B) Sinister Dane (13b): Starts out of the left side of the cave for three bolts, then up the headwall. 3. (C) Full Penetration (12d): Shares start with Sinister Dane to anchors inside cave. 4. Coven (14a): pulls lip at middle of cave. 5. Gank Move (12a) 6. Insider Trading (13c): Starts out of right side of the cave and up the headwall. 7. (G) Window Shopping (12b): Starts out far right side of cave on underclings and flakes. 8. Red Tag Sale (12b, 11b to intermediate anchors): Starts from a large boulder / flake. 9. Dreadlock Holiday (12d, 11+ to intermediate anchors) 10. Dreadlock Holiday Variation (5.12?): Climb Dreadlock holiday but veer right towards the top. 11. If you can't do it Glue it (12b/c)
This is where the formerly dangerous route with the bolts in the loose flakes was. There are now two routes here that share an intermediate anchor and one bolt above the anchor.
This wall can get quite confusing with all the obsolete information, and many many linkups in the cave and upper headwall. Here is a listing of the main mostly independent lines from left to right. I haven't climbed many of these so some of the grades could be inaccurate.
Uncle Fester routes: Left of the cave, there are several lines and linkups. 12a - 13a
1. Almost Blue 12c, regarded as one of the best lines on the wall. I haven't been on it. 2. Sinister Dane 13b, Starts out of the left side of the cave for three bolts, then up the headwall. 3. Full Penetration 12d, Shares start with Sinister Dane to anchors inside cave. 4. Coven 14a, pulls lip at middle of cave. 5. Gank Move 12a, starts up right side of cave to shared anchors with Full Penetration. 6. Insider Trading 13c, Starts out of right side of the cave and up the headwall. 7. Window Shopping 12b, Starts out far right side of cave on underclings and flakes. 8. Red Tag Sale 12b, 11b to intermediate anchors, starts behind a boulder / flake. 9. Dreadlock Holiday 12a, 11+ to intermediate anchors 10. Dreadlock Holiday Variation 5.12? Climb Dreadlock holiday but veer right towards the top. 11. If you can't do it Glue it. 12d, Around 11+ or 12a to intermediate anchors. Tricky sequence around 2nd bolt, and at the top pulling the final bulge.
This is where the formerly dangerous route with the bolts in the loose flakes was. There are now two routes here that share an intermediate anchor and one bolt above the anchor. 12. Left unknown new Route 11a to intermediate, 12b/c to top. 13. Right unknown new Route 11c to intermediate 12a to top.
14. Bob Marley Meets Master Ganj 5.11b 15. New Route, 5.12d, Looks thin. 16. Little Caterpillar 5.12b 17. New Kids on the Block 5.10d
Fillet et Papillon Wall
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