Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Scott pulling hard on the crux section of the qual...
Description
Based on the polish, this route would appear to be the most popular line at Sitting Bull Falls. This shorty is extremely powerful for the grade. The cruxes here are harder than any single move on Coup, Eagles or Tribal War, however, the difficulties are so brief that the pump-factor never comes into play. I would argue that Counting Coup is easier than Ghost Dancers.
Begin with a couple of easy moves to a strenuous clip at the 2nd bolt. It would definately be possible to blow this clip, so you may want to use a spotter, or stick clip this bolt your first time up. The first crux comes moving past this bolt with a painful 2 finger pocket (that sometimes contains a bat!) and a hard crank up to a great side-pull slot. Shuffle the feet then crank up to a slopey edge and dyno for the obvious jug. Clip the third bolt, then enter the crux. The pockets are big here, but they aren't very deep or positive, and the feet suddenly turn into tiny edges, making the next couple of moves desparate. A great (though small) 2-finger pocket leads to a huge rail of jugs and a great rest (and a possible arm thread). A few easier moves lead up to a final tricky slab move below the first anchor.