Early Wall - Left End

Description 

The upper left side of Early Wall has about 10 climbs, including both sport climbs and cracks. This area is sunny at first in the morning, but goes into the shade for the rest of the day. There is seldom more than one party climbing up here. The cliff disintegrates into a discontinuous chossy section not far to the right of 2-Wheel Drive.

If you top out any of these climbs, scramble off the left (east) end of the cliff easily. One could also scramble up to the clifftop easily to set topropes, although some of the 2-bolt anchors may be a little bit too low to reach from above.

Getting There 

A faint trail follows cairns up the left side of the large talus slope, passing some nice rock art along the way. It's a steep hike up, but doesn't take more than 10 or 15 minutes.
Alternatively, a decent trail allows one to get here by traversing along the base of Early Wall from the Grotto.

Climbs (Left to Right) 

The numbers coincide with those from the original online guide by R.Bradshaw.

About 10 climbs are at the upper left end of Early Wall. A direct approach to this section of cliff can be had by finding the faint trail up from the wash, along the left edge of the boulder-covered slope.
(01) Rope Burn in Hell 5.12b
(02) Airway Arete 5.11c
(03) abandoned project unworthy of being bolted ? (anchors, but no bolts, so far)
(04) Schmeming 5.12a/b
(05) Rock n Road 5.11 (trad, no anchor)
(06) Early Arete 5.11d
(07) Up To Bat 5.9 (trad, no anchor)
(08) Humbolt 5.10a
(09) Two Wheel Drive 5.10d
(09.1) The Diablo Cruiser 5.7 (trad, no anchor)

The Classics

Featured Route For Early Wall - Left End

(08) Humbolt 5.10a  NM : Santa Fe Area : ... : Early Wall - Left End

Start atop a big block and climb a finger crack followed by a tricky mantle, then crimping and edging on the thin face left of the arete on small edges to a 2-bolt anchor. This climb is thinner but not as steep as most at Diablo, and fun, high quality climbing....[more]   Browse More Classics in NM