Pulling the ledgy face moves (and trailing George...
Description
A sustained, lengthy route tackling a series of roofs to a final exposed crux move from a face over one last roof. Mostly 5.10+ until the last moves. Final hard move can be avoided by going right at the last bolt.
Location
This is the bolted face/arete with a number of roofs just to the right of Original Face Route.
Protection
16 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor (not 13 as stated in one of the guides) Long draws on the bolts under the roofs are nice to minimize rope drag but aren't required.
Bring a 2nd rope for the descent. If you only have 1 rope, you could get down by rapping first to the Original Face Route anchors (annoying to do, though), and then down from there. 2 ropes are better.
Aaron Miller thinks Rick Bradshaw didn't put this one up....we don't know who did. However...this fall, Aaron retroed a few bolts in the middle of the route to move the climb away from a bad section of rock. It now goes over better quality rock for a few bolts and all the fun stuff is still there. This is a really nice route.
This route was established by some combination of Mark Thomas, Tom Wezwick, Karl Kiser, and Chris Kessler, all of whom worked together on several routes at Diablo and in particular on the Winter Wall.
By George Perkins Administrator From: Los Alamos, NM Mar 15, 2008 rating: 5.11a
Watch out, this one has more than the 13 bolts listed in the guides. I'm pretty sure there's 16 (not including the anchor).
Also, if you climbed this with 1 60m rope and didn't trail a 2nd line, you can get down by rapping first to the Original Face Route anchors (which is kind of tough to do), and down from there. 2 ropes is better.
Aaron, thanks for improving this climb. It's definitely worth climbing. This climb is like Roid Boys on 'roids.
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