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Early Wall - Right End
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(13) Ergo 
(14) You're Scaring the Horses 
(15) Drunk Rednecks with Golf Clubs 
(16) Clip Art 
(16.1) A Day with Dr. Diablo 
(17) Lichening The Serpent 
(18) Airbus 
(19) Luna Lumina 

(13) Ergo 

5.10c

   

FA: Rick Bradshaw and Josh Smith
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.10c [details]
Length: 80 feet
Views: 146 page views

Submitted By: George Perkins on Oct 23, 2007


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Description 

Fun moves up a pleasing buttress. Tricky thin moves between big holds down low. A inobvious move (a sidepull off the 'ear') is the crux at the bulge section midway up. More easier delicate and steep climbing to the big ledge.
Ergo can be used to access You're Scaring the Horses, but is worthwhile in its own right as a 5.10 sport climb; it's fun the whole way. This climb is underappreciated, and doesn't see the traffic as much as other 5.10s at Diablo, probably because it's the only bolted 5.10 in this section of cliff (not right near most of the others).


Location 

This climb is on the next prominent pillar left of Drunk Rednecks... toward the lowest part of Early Wall.


Protection 

10 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.



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By Scott Beguin
From: Los Alamos, NM
Oct 26, 2007

I believe the FA was Rick Bradshaw and one other whose name I can't remember.

By Rick Bradshaw
From: Los Alamos, NM
Apr 22, 2008
rating: 5.10c

Josh Smith and I put this route up originally to gain access to the arete above it so we could work on what is now "Your Scaring the Horses" but it turned into a great route itself. Josh named it after the ear side-pull down low that facilitates upward motion in that section.