Start up 5.7 slab with 1 or 2 trad pieces (or solo); you can also clip first bolt of Sunbaked which won't entirely protect you all the way to the next bolt. Then straight up near vertical crux to a BIG ledge, rest, then continue up another steeper section to the anchor on a ledge. Some people like to put in another piece of gear (med. nut) after the big ledge, but many competent 5.10 climbers will be happy with only quickdraws on this climb (i.e., bringing no gear).
The climbing is fun, the rock is clean, but the big ledge halfway up this route leaves it feeling a little discontinuous, and the fact that you need to bring gear or climb unprotected at the start probably makes this see a little less traffic than others at the grade.
Location
Climb 12 in the beta photo. The original online guide photo may help. On the far right side of Winter Wall, the columns are oriented such that they diagonal downward to the right. This is the left of the two climbs in this area.
Protection
5 bolts. To reach the first bolt, nuts or 1 or 2 cams (3/4" or 1" or so) is necessary, unless you're ok with soloing up to 5.7 for 30'. 2-bolt anchor.
This route takes small nuts surprisingly well. I found two solid placements before the first bolt and another one after the big ledge midway through. A decent route.
This route was established by some combination of Mark Thomas, Tom Wezwick, Karl Kiser, and Chris Kessler, all of whom worked together on several routes at Diablo and in particular on the Winter Wall. I think Chris was the driver on this one.
Mixed route put up by Tom Wezwick and Karl Kiser. We climbed an easy route to the left which probably should not be done because of bad rock near the top.
RSS Feed
