This cryptic route is arguably the hardest in the Solar Cave. The route begins up relatively mellow, blocky rock, before hitting the first crux at the 3rd & 4th bolt. Slopey pinches and awkward body positions lead to a rattly double crimp hold and a terrible shake. From here, clip up then head over the next bulge with strenuous moves on small but positive crimps and pockets. Above the bulge a decent shake leads to a few more sequential moves to a no-hands stance on Clovis Hunter. A few more trivial moves deliver you below the final upper roof, where an off-balance, pumpy, and somewhat terrifying lieback turns the lip to the anchor. Its best to hang a long draw over the lip here so you can clip before committing to the lieback.
Location
This route begins immediately right of Clovis Hunter in the Solar Cave. The route heads straight up the overhang, turns the lip, briefly joins Clovis Hunter, then continues straight up over a second roof, where Clovis Hunter heads right.
Protection
Bolts. The anchor isn't the greatest: Two bolts, each with a single biner = twisted rope.
Just kidding. You'd think bozo's would recognize "fixed" gear when they see it.
By George Perkins Administrator From: Los Alamos, NM Feb 25, 2009
Usually we blame n00bs or fixed-gear-hating-"trad"-climbers-trying-to-keep-White-Rock-a-wilderness when the lowering biners disappear over there... which has happened at 3 different crags in the last year. Gonna have to point the finger somewhere else, in this instance, since a 5.13b grade keeps most of those types of people off.
No doubt. I've taken to spray painting the biners black (to make them look much less attractive as booty) ahead of time and even used bailing wire to "fix" the biners on the chain which, obviously, isn't a real deterrent but at least says, "hey, these biners were left here on purpose for the safety and convenience of everyone." Thanks for installing "fixed" biners, Lee.
By LeeAB Administrator From: ABQ, NM Feb 25, 2009 rating: 5.13b
Well I usually stick the ugliest crapiest looking biners up there possible, I've got a great green locker with gold splatter anidization, truely hideous.
I guess I'll just bring out some quick links next time I'm out to put on the bolts and move the biners down.
The 5.13b grade is not going to keep anyone away since you can climb Clovis Hunter into the finish at the same Clovis grade, but you would still think that those folks would know what is up.
I added a couple of quicklinks to reduce rope twisting last year - man, that industrial grade lowering hook is awesome! I give it 13a because I've never been able to do 13b second try. Although, it does suit my style.
RSS Feed
