Early Wall - Right End

BETA PHOTO: routes on the far right side of Early Wall (photo ...

Description 

Just to the East around the corner from the Grotto. North facing routes, good in summer.

Getting There 

The easiest way: Hike to the Grotto and head left before entering the Grotto. Routes are found all along the length of wall, so keep walking.

Climbs (from left to right, generally): 

The numbers coincide with those from the original online guide by R.Bradshaw, plus a few new climbs have been put up more recently.

This beta photo best shows these climbs at the far right end of Early Wall:
(13) Ergo 5.10c
(14) You're Scaring the Horses 5.12b (climb Ergo to get to this route)
(15) Drunk Rednecks with Golf Clubs 5.8
(16) Clip Art 5.11d
(16.1) A Day with Dr. Diablo 5.10c (new, just right of Clip Art)
(17) Lichening The Serpent 5.11c (climb Clip Art, Rednecks, or Dr. Diablo to get to this route)
(18) Airbus 5.11 (trad, best start is up Rednecks, then scramble up and left to get to this chimney/OW)
(18.1) "Swift/Johnson Diablo Standard Crack" ? (trad, noted by K.Kiser here- nasty p1 to nice hand crack left of Airbus?)
(19) Luna Lumina 5.11- (trad, 2 pitches, right of Dr. Diablo, easy wide 1st pitch, tips 2nd pitch)

The Classics

Featured Route For Early Wall - Right End

(18) Airbus 5.11 PG13  NM : Santa Fe Area : ... : Early Wall - Right End

An obvious long offwidth pitch can be seen from across the canyon as a corner thats adjacent to the right most rock buttress with lots of lichen (lichening the serpent is on this). The first pitch is either a dirty 5.8 stem corner that leads to a stellar cove below a clean squeeze bombay chimney or an easy traverse from a 5.8 sport route. Great belays with chain anchors. Fight your way up a hard 5.11 squeeze that gets you on top of a large c...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM