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Eagle Canyon
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(01) Kona 
(02) Pepto-Dismal 
(03) Maalox Moment 
(05) Killer Bee 
(08) Old Wave 
(09) Tutti Frutti 
(10) Jug Abuse 
(11) Turkey Baster 
(12) Manhattan 
(13) Unnamed Left 
(14) Unnamed Middle (aka Top Hat) 
(16) Unnamed Right 
(17) Handsome Parish Lady 
(19) Racist Fantasy 
(21) Omdulation Fever 
(22) Are You Lichen It? 
(24) Psycho Thriller 
(25) Bananarama 
(28) Mr. Wong's Zipper 
(29) Bunga Bunga 
(30) Didgemaster 

(19) Racist Fantasy 

5.12a

   

FA: Ed Rombach, Tom Wezwick
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12a [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Views: 56 page views

Submitted By: George Perkins on Aug 30, 2009


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Description 

Follow the black streak, cranking up on shallow pockets and/or reachy moves between them, for the first 4 bolts (crux). Then two good rest stances with more featured climbing between them, followed by a bolt-protected hand crack to the anchor.


Location 

This climb is on a black streak on the right side of a clean wall whose base is higher than most of the other routes (E Pluribus.. is also on this wall, to the left).

From a climb like (25) Bananarama, go uphill and left, passing Earth Monster and 3 other climbs, to the highest wall with routes on it, just left of a left-facing corner.


Protection 

8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor



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By George Perkins
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Aug 30, 2009

We replaced the disintegrating webbing anchor with links+biners, but chains would definitely be a further improvement.