BETA PHOTO: Crappy picture of Monkey Lust. Will replace with a...
Description
This is apparently the "warmup" for the North Mesa. Unfortunately this route looks a lot better than it is. Extremely short, with about 10 feet of really fun, juggy climbing, to a slabby, slopey, technical (for the grade) arete finish.
Also, the Offwidth approach detracts significantly. What better way to warm up than by thrutching up a sandy shoot in your pink lycra?
Location
This route begins atop the "Giant Boulder" down and left from Touch Monkey. Begin by scrambling awkwardly up the offwidth on the right (SE) corner of the boulder. Its probably most convenient if only the climber surmounts the boulder. The belayer can belay from the base of the boulder, just right of La Espina. Also its best to lower off the boulder (from the Monkey Lust anchor) rather than try to downclimb the OW.
By Jason Hundhausen From: Los Alamos, NM Aug 17, 2007 rating: 5.10a
Four bolts to a two-bolt anchor. The anchors, as well as the first and fourth bolts have been replaced with 1/2, glued-in bolts. The second bolt wobbles slightly, but the third, even though it's older, is still solid. Thanks to whomever is investing their time and effort to keeping this place safe and in good shape.
thanks for the work. I climbed this six years ago and thought the bolts were bad then!
By George Perkins Administrator From: Los Alamos, NM Aug 17, 2008 rating: 5.10a
One better choice than to "warm up" in the offwidth start is to climb one of the "boulder routes" (17) Laurel's Climb or (18) Unknown instead to get to the big balcony ledge below the steep bolted section.
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