This moss-covered slab will test your slabbing abilities to the fullest. A bit dicey in spots, the trick here is keeping your wits as your feet strain from the miniscule edges.
If you enjoy engaging 'girl-climbing', this line is a must-do.
Location
The second bolted route right of The Prow, and the first bolted route left of Shadowdancer.
Protection
[(was 5), now: 7] bolts and a drilled angle [to a 3-bolt anchor].
Somebody added two new bolts to this route since the last time I climbed it, bringing the total to 7 bolts and a pinned angle. There are still the original cold-shut anchors at the top, but somebody also added a third bolt as a back-up.
Monomaniac wrote: "If you enjoy engaging 'girl-climbing', this line is a must-do." Ha ha ha. Personally, I think this is a must-do regardless of what type of climbing you enjoy!
Which bolts are new? Seemed like the last one, and maybe the third one were added since the last time I was on this.
By Rick Shull Administrator From: Arcata, CA and Dyer,NV Aug 3, 2009
I remember this having 5 bolts and being rated 10c back in the late 80's-early 90's. I think I was getting sandbagged by the locals!
By George Perkins Administrator From: Los Alamos, NM Aug 5, 2009 rating: 5.11b
For better or worse, the new bolts now make this climb much less heady than it was, and Z-clipping is a concern at the last bolt.
Rick Shull wrote:
I think I was getting sandbagged by the locals!
Possibly they were sandbagging with a 10c rating, but also some of the edges may have eroded, due to traffic, after the route was put up. Not that I was there to know personally, but they say many of the Cochiti climbs have gotten more difficult with time.
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