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Me on 2nd pitch
Description
Longest route in the Sandias. Around 1300 vertical feet of climbing after a brutal 2+ hour approach. Plan for 10-15 hours car to car depending on your speed. Take a machete for your approach.
[Pitch-by-pitch descriptions by G.Perkins, climbed it 2 or 3 times, following Sandia Rock as a guide.]
P1: Beginning at the very bottom of the ridge, climb easy cracks to reach a good ledge where the arete steepens. You can also get here by climbing cracks to the right of the arete (5.6 or 5.7). It's a long pitch (150' ?).
P2: Climb up the arete for 20' or so, step left, and continue up to a large cave/alcove. Belay at the left side of this cave alcove below a finger crack. 5.7, PG13.
P3: Up finger crack escaping the left side of the alcove passing ancient ring piton on the way (5.8 PG13); then difficulty eases. With a 50m rope you'll need to stop at a ledge and set belay; with a 60m rope- you can reach all the way to a tree, and the 3rd class ledges- if you link these pitches (recommended), then just move the belay to the start of the 5.7 crack on p4.
P4: If you didn't extend P3, continue up to the tree (5.6?). Scramble over 3rd class ledges to a notch below another steep section. Reportedly, a double rope rappel to the west lets you escape from these ledges. Continue up a short 5.7 fingers crack to another tree. If you start with at the base of the steep 5.7 fingers- you can link the upper part of P4 and all of P5 with a 60m rope.
P5: Follow a bushy gully, climbing finger cracks, passing a single well-protected 5.8 move over a bulge (which I believe to be the hardest move on the climb). Belay on a small ledge below a low-angle right facing corner. You might find a hard-to-see piton to your right, at this belay, but don't rely on finding it.
P6: Low-angle right-facing corner and continue to another tree. Short pitch, 5.5. Move belay to the notch at the base of the next steep section.
P7: A 50' steep step has two options. You can make slab moves while you hand traverse past 2 ancient ring-pitons to the left, or climb a crack in a left-facing corner with a crack for pro to the right of the piton face. 5.8 either way. I've done both. I suppose I'd recommend the left option, but use your own judgement. Belay at the end of difficult climbing.
P8: Scramble 3rd class to the start of the next steep section. Unroping is recommended. From the end of this scrambling section, you can escape on the 5th Avenue ledges to the North- no rappels required- if weather or time recommend you bail.
P9: A short 5.8 crack to a large ledge. Sandia Rock suggests you continue to the next tree, but I found belaying at the big ledge to be a good idea, since it'd create bad rope drag to keep going. You can still reach the P10 belay from this ledge.
P10: Climb to the tree (if you haven't already done so), and 5.7 climbing leads to a large ledge with another tree on the left side. Long pitch.
P11: A long 5.7 pitch, passing a pin (or maybe it was a bolt, I forget), leads to an obvious stance on the arete, about 30' below the crux moves of the next pitch.
P12: Cruise up to the roof, clip fixed pins or place your own gear, traverse right out the roof. This is the crux of the route, and is really exposed, and tougher than it should be because of the 1000' you already climbed (5.8+). 10' of finger crack lead to blocky and easier ground. Keep going up and a little left until you run out of rope. Supposedly, you can avoid this lead by escaping to the left side of the ridge blocky 5.4.
A couple hundred feet of easy scrambling (you'll want the rope coiled) lead to the Needle's summit.
To descend, hike east back to the saddle from the summit and make 1-5 rappels depending on your rope, back into the loose gully you originally descended. We took one 60m rope and made 4 raps off various trees with slings. [GP- I did this with just one rope and one rappel, but more down-scrambling; I've also downclimbed the whole way, but rappelling is easier and recommended]
Location
Very prominent on the Sandia Crest, the SW Ridge of the Needle is self-described.
In the late afternoons/early evenings, from Albuquerque, this climbs defines the sun/shade line on the Needle.
Protection
A questionable fixed pin on the third pitch and a solid one protecting the crux on the last pitch are the only fixed pieces I can remember. Bring a full rack up to 3.5 with doubles in .75-2 camalots.
5.9 or 5.10 climbers will likely be fine with smaller racks and/or be ok with simulclimbing much or all of the route.
By John Kear From: Albuquerque, NM Dec 10, 2007 rating: 5.8
This is a classic outing in the Sandias. The rock quality itself isn't exactly classic but the climb and the experience are top notch for sure. Highly recommended adventure climb.
John is right; this is classic for the range and offers incerdible views of Pinnacle Valley. The approach can be reasonable if you go to the limestone band and take your time to find the weakness. I found leather gloves made the bushwacking relatively pain free.
The Needle
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