South Peak Falls 

FA:  Unknown Type:  Mixed, Ice, Alpine Consensus:  WI3-4 M3 [details] Length:  2 pitches, 300 feet, Grade III Season:  Darkest winter Views: 102 page views Submitted By: Marc Beverly on Nov 12, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Chadwick Spencer cutting his teeth on the second (...

Description 

This is the biggest piece of ice in the Sandias on any kind of regular basis. If you really want to add this route to your tick list, then watch for this thing to form up all winter long. When it comes in, drop whatever you're doing and go get it. You'll have a bout 4 hours of daylight before the upper ice lens falls off the second pitch (that's when the sun touches it and why it gets and x-rating). Ideally, you would climb this during a cloudy day and at the extension of a good cold storm cycle.

Gain the top of Three Gun Springs Canyon and crampon-up where the ice starts.

P-1: Easy warm-up with generally good ice screws in the narrow gully access the main horizontal ledge with a large Ponderosa pine tree. Variations will exist from year to year and greatly depending on the season and your choice of route. Some mixed climbing exists on this pitch as well should you be into that sort of sadistic punishment.

P-2: Rarely does the ice extend all the way to the ledge, so some mixed slab granite climbing would be in order to gain the main drape. this ice takes you to the half-way point where you might finally fire in a stubbie for psychological pro. At the 3/4 mark, you should be able to get a good piece in, but the climbing is essentially over by then.

Location 

Rap the route.

This thing can be seen pretty well from town, but use some binoculars from tramway/Indian School to look for the second pitch to lower as far as possible before heading up the trail to divide and conquer.

Protection 

4 screws, #2, #3 Camalots, possibly a few TCUs. Two 50m ropes.