Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
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The Shield is only open from mid-August to March for peregrine falcons even though they are no longer protected, so you'll have to plan accordingly. The Knife Edge is open year-round.
Bill with the cruxes behind him, passing the big r...
Description
Procrastination was the first climb established on the southwest buttress of the Shield, and the first to fully take on the 5th class difficulties. Because the Shield is so prominent from ABQ, every Sandia climber is drawn to this formation sooner or later, often with its easiest continuous 5th class route, Procrastination, in mind. This climb, like the others on the Shield, is not to be taken lightly. The approach is complicated especially the first time (even for the Sandias) and has definite 'do-not-fall' sections and takes a couple hours even if done correctly. Good climbers have had accidents on this climb.
There is some good climbing on this route, but about half of the pitches are not great with more loose blocks compared to the super-classic Sandia climbs at the same grades on other formations. Be careful of what you pull on, stand on, and place pro behind; mostly it's all good but be alert for the places it's not. Despite these warnings, the overall length, and airiness, and general wild feel make this climb attractive.
Start behind the boulder in the aspens. 1) A 5.8 boulder problem in a black water streak is followed by traversing left around the corner. Pro at the top of the boulder problem is present but you have to look carefully. This part of this pitch is the only part of the climb rated "R" in the book- but it's soft for an R pitch in my opinion (I'll keep the R rating listed though- sandbagging on the Shield isn't cool). A 5.4 ramp leads up and left to a 2-bolt belay.
2) Lieback a 5.8 finger crack off the belay, and follow the left- facing corner to another 2-bolt belay (or continue up and right to tree). Quality.
3-4) Move up and right to a tree (if not done on previous pitch). Follow a sometimes wet 5.8 hand crack up to the roof, and traverse right on featured holds under the roof (crux of route), with pro underneath roof. Turn the corner and continue up the increasingly easy & bushy gully to the next good place to belay. Another quality pitch. This pitch is split into two pitches in Mick's book, but linking seemed reasonable.
5) Cruise up 5.6 gully with some bushes and rubble to the big "bivi ledge" atop the Chicken Chop Suey crack. Does anyone really bivouac here on purpose any more?
6) Various options as you climb the corner or the face to its left, passing trees along the way to belay at a tree below a striking arete 180' later (5.7 if you find easiest path, 5.8 on left face)
7) Again, more options. Stay left of the sharp arete and climb a chimney in the corner or the face to its left (5.7 if you stay in the corner; maybe 5.8 to left). Belay at a tree, or continue farther and build your own anchor.
[Pitches 8-12 of the original route: The original route angled up and left over mostly 5.6 or easier ground to the top. This is recommended if time or weather suggest a quick exit, or if 5.9 is too hard. I'd welcome additions to this part, as I've not gone that way. It is recommended to move up and right on "Andy's exit pitches" to maintain high quality climbing.]
8) Traverse right to an arete, climb this, (5.8, fun) to the 'Speed Bumps' ledge. Belay below the black face, wherever you can find pro for an anchor.
9) Climb up dark wall for 30' feet to shallow left facing corner and belay in a dish (5.8, no pro for first 20')
10) Continue up water streak passing a bolt to a 2-bolt belay (one move of 5.9). Could these last 2 pitches be combined with 60m rope?
11) Slab (5.8), one more bolt, and top out. The water and food you stashed on top are only moments away.
[Alternatively, from the Speed Bumps belay at the start of p9: (a) The big right-facing corner (5.9 for first half, top unknown). (b) Angle up and right (5.7R) to the 2bolt belay at the top of the 1st pitch of the Odyssey, and finish with that route 5.10a. (c) traverse right on Speedbumps (4th class) to other difficult Shield exits (Cowboys Delight 5.12+?, Escape from the Cyclops 5.11a).]
Escape from this route would be possible from the top of p2 with double rope rappels off the bolted anchors at the top of p1 and p2. Beyond that, you'd need to leave a lot of gear. From the top of p8, Hill's guide reports that it is possible to move left to a cave and rappel down in the vicinity of the Standard S Route with 3 double 50m rope rappels instead of climbing the last pitches.
Location
Left of the prominent rainbow overhangs. It helps to pick out the big dihedral with the offwidth in it which is Chicken Chop Suey's pitch 3 as a landmark; pitch 2 of Procrastination is right below this.
Start behind the boulder in the aspen grove at the base of the talus slope. A water streak marks the beginning.
Protection
A normal Sandia rack works well for this climb: 1 set wired nuts, 1 set cams up to 3". If leading at your limit, 2 each of cams might be wise. 8-10 long runners to minimize rope drag + 4-5 quickdraws. 70m ropes can be used to combine pitches.
Shield
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