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Crux pitch of "Cry for Merlin."
Description
Descend via the standard rap route as for Excalibur (this will be a hard swing to the right if you start at the crux pitch). Belay at the right set of anchor bolts (the left set being for Excal)and ramble up the easy start (5.8) to where the business starts on the slab. Awkward and balancy moves take you out the crux through a well protected, slightly overhanging, sharp arete. Pass up the last bolts before the belay to avoid some serious rope drag, or take double ropes to not have to worry about it and just clip the bolts. The exit pitch is trad 5.9 that pros well and is an easy finish.
Location
Located just to the right of Excal, this is the obvious arete with the best position of all the climbs on this wall.
Protection
set of draws, trad rack up to #2 or Camalot. 2 x 50m doubles is great.
Glad to see this route on the database, this is one I have wanted to do for a while.
Why the PG13 rating? Are there any sections of hard climbing where you don't want to fall?
Is the direct finish to this crybaby or something? 13a?
By John Kear From: Albuquerque, NM Nov 30, 2007 rating: 5.12b
The PG section is right off the anchor and traversing to the first bolt. Not a good place to fall and only about 5.10+ or so but, committing moves and an ugly swinging fall onto your belayer are enough incentive to not come off.
I haven't been back on the route since the 5.13 variation was established and the new final pitch to the top.
John sums it up - you just don't want to fall before getting to the bolts. The PG13 rating is something that comes from a Red Rocks guidebook. It saves the text of what I just wrote for each route is all. There's no 5.13 on this line - for clarification.
Hey Marc, I did actually add a bolt or two that now stays on the face and goes at 5.12+, there is a little jesery involved to make it that grade, 5.13- if you are as hard headed as I was on the FA.
WatchTower
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