Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Description
A great wall hidden in the middle of Pinnacle valley. This formation has good steep lines on quality rock. It's biggest drawback is the shortness of the climbs 3 to 4 pitches.
Climbs from Left to Right: Seventh Sojourn 5.9 Excalibur 5.10d Cry For Merlin 5.12b
Getting There
Approach from the crest via the North Crest Trail. Follow this trail until it veers away from the crest. Stay left following the crest on a minor trail. Follow this trail until the first major limestone band. Just before this drop down over the crest, there will be a cairn marking the trail.
Hike downhill toward Albuquerque for about 10 minutes to a clearing. Follow cairns and climber trails to the first rappel station a large tree set back about 20 feet from the top of the cliff.
1st Rappel, short, best to use a single rope. Head slightly left to a bolted anchor.
2nd Rappel: 140' rappel down to another bolted anchor
3rd rappel: 150' rappel to ground. Best to toss ropes to climber's right and advance the knot a few feet.
If you are comfortable scrambling about on decent sized ledges, maybe 3-4' wide, you can do the approach rappels on a single 70m rope, you only have to scramble maybe 10-15' to your right and down at the end of the second rappel.
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